Track of King William and The Williamites in Ireland (part 2)

SOME EXTRACTS

FROM THE
RECORDS OF
OLD LISBURN
AND THE
MANOR OF KILLULTAGH.

-- -- -- --

Edited by JAMES CARSON.

-- -- -- --

XXVI.

-- -- -- --

TRACK OF 
KING WILLIAM 
AND THE WILLIAMITES 
IN IRELAND

-- -- -- --

From the "Belfast Weekly News," June 28th, 1890.

-- -- -- --

By RICHARD LILBURN.

-- -- -- --

(Continued.)

Arrives at Hillsborough.

In the evening of the 19th of June, William and the Williamite forces arrived in Hillsborough, nothing remarkable having occurred during the march from Lisburn. The town, which was then and still is, the property of the titled family of Downshire, whose name it bears, was incorporated by charter of 14th Charles II., and the Corporation was styled "The Sovereign, Burgesses, and Free Commons of the Borough and Town of Hillsborough." Its political history is very interesting to the loyal men of Ulster. There the Council of the Antrim Association met at stated times, in 1688, and deliberated in regard to the means to be adopted for the defence of the lives, liberties, and properties of the Protestants of the North. There, also, had been Schomberg and his army, on Tuesday the 3rd of September, 1689, on their way to Loughbrickland. And a weary way it was; for what the Protestants spared in the flight from their homes; the Jacobites destroyed, so that in the district not a sheep nor a cow was to be seen; the track of Schomberg and his men was through ruin. Now the King himself and his forces had arrived. As already stated the castle had been prepared to receive and accommodate his Majesty. It was a magnificent structure, built by Sir Arthur Hill, in 1641-2, and consisted of four bastions. Bonnivert describes it as "a great house belonging to the King, standing on a hill on the left hand of the road;" and in a certain sense the Frenchman was right. The site was chosen so that the fort might command the Pass of Kilwarlen, the chief road between Belfast and Dublin. Accordingly, it was strongly fortified within, and had the additional strength afforded by a trench. At the close of the year 1660, it was made a Royal garrison, and placed in command of a Constable, who received 3s 4d a day, having under him twenty-four warders whose pay was each 6d a day. The constableship was vested in the Hill family for ever.

As might be expected, the old Castle in the demesne is much venerated by loyal men. There his Majesty remained two days, and strangers are still shown relics of the Royal visit. They have pointed out to them the apartments he occupied; the chair on which he sat; the table on which he wrote his Orders; the window opposite which chair and table stood; the bedstead on which he slept; the stable in which his horse was put up; the situation of the gardens, and the direction in which he walked -- in fact, everything is to be seen but the King himself. More interesting than the silent witnesses is the testimony borne by the successors of the original warders. They are regularly on duty at the new Castle of Hillsborough, wearing the uniform, somewhat modernised, of the Dutch Guards -- blue coat with red lappels; cocked hat trimmed with white lace, and for plume a red feather; white breeches and gaiters.

From the Court at Hillsborough, his Majesty, issued two important documents One was a Royal Warrant, addressed to Christopher Carleton, collector of customs at Belfast, authorising the payment of £1,200 yearly to the Presbyterian ministers of Ulster. This is understood to be the origin, of the grant called "Regium Donum." The pension was inserted in the Civil List, and made. payable out of the Exchequer. Here is a copy of the Warrant:--

"Whereas, upon our arrival in this kingdom at Belfast, we received a loyal and dutiful address from our trusty and well-beloved subjects, Patrick Adair, etc., in the name of themselves and the rest of the Presbyterian ministers of their persuasion in these northern parts of our kingdom: and calling to mind how early they also were in their address unto us upon our arrival in England, and the promises we then made them of a pension of eight hundred pounds per annum, for their subsistence, which, by reason of several impediments, hath not as yet been made effectual unto them: and being assured of the peaceable and dutiful temper of our said subjects, and sensible of the losses they have sustained and their constant labour to unite the hearts of others in zeal and loyalty towards us: We do hereby, out of our Royal Bounty give and grant unto them the sum of twelve hundred pounds per annum, to be paid by quarterly instalments, the first payment of three hundred pounds sterling, to begin upon the 24th day of this instant June, and so forward: and our will and pleasure is, that you, or the collector of our customs at Belfast for the time being, do make the payments of the said pension into the hands of Mr. Patrick Adair, Alexander Hutchinson, Archibald Hamilton, Robert Craghead, Hugh Wilson, Robert Henry, and William Adair, or to the person which they, or any five of them shall appoint, to be by them distributed among the rest. And for so doing this shall be your warrant.

"Given at our Court at Hillsborough the 19th day of June, 1690, in the second year of our reign."

Arrives at Loughbrickland

The march from Hillsborough to Schomberg's former camping ground at Loughbrickland was uneventful. Portions of the old road still remain, and their roundabout and up and down hill construction shows the difficulty a large army had to encounter. In fact, the journey was over a way little more than the breadth of a modern sidepath. Schomberg and his men had travelled the same route on the 3rd September, 1689, and encamped at Dromore, where the forces of the Antrim Association had been routed by Lieutenant-General Hamilton, the defeat being known as the "Break of Drummore." The Duke's camp had been on the side of a hill beyond Loughbrickland, and his troops were decimated by sickness and death. King William, however, selected a new site for his army, and spent his time in reviewing regiment after regiment.

Dalrymple says he threw a march past into a review. Instead of keeping one position, he rode amongst the regiments as soon as they appeared, to encourage the soldiers, and to satisfy himself of their condition. An order having been brought to him to sign for wine for his table, he said aloud, "No, he would drink water with his soldiers." He slept every night in his own moveable house in the camp, was all the day on horseback, flew from place to place to survey the army or the country, and trusted nothing to others. While at one time he brought up the rere, with an anxiety which engaged the affection of all ranks; at another, with a spirit which inflamed them, he was the foremost in advance parties, if danger seemed to threaten, or the object to be known was of importance.

His Majesty arrived at Loughbrickland on the 22nd of June, in the morning of which day, a party of two hundred foot and dragoons going from Newry to Dundalk to discover the Jacobites, were surprised and suffered severely. The Williamites were commanded by Captains Crow and Farlow, and at a narrow pass four hundred of the Jacobites lay in ambush. The encounter resulted in the defeat of the Williamites, 22 of whom were killed and the two officers taken prisoners. Captain Farlow was the first who gave James a certain account of King William being in Ireland; for till then he would not believe it. The Jacobites were so elated with their triumph that they clamoured for a general engagement.

At Dundalk.

On the 24th of June the camp at Loughbrickland was broken up, and William's forces moved in the direction of the Jacobite encampment, which was then near Dundalk. On the 27th the King and his men reached the place, and encamped about a mile south of the town. According to the Royal order, all his Majesty's forces mustered there, and numbered 36,000. Same day, the Jacobites made a retrograde movement as far as Dunblane.

-- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

BELFAST AND ITS ENVIRONS, WITH A TOUR TO THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY,

BY J. H. SMITH, M.A., M.R.I.A.
1853.

This little volume of 144 pages contains a breezy description of Belfast, and numerous towns and objects of interest in the North of Ireland. About ten pages are devoted to the Giants' Ring, Ballylesson, Lisburn, and the Round Towers of Drumbo and Trummery.

The author thus refers to the original name of Lisburn. -- Linsley Garvin was the name by which Lisburn was known till within the last century, this was more commonly written Lisnagarvey; and the etymology given, for it by Dean Story, who wrote about 1690, is so curiously illustrative of the stories of the Irish current in his day, that it seems worth being preserved. Lisburn, he informs us, is one of the most English places in the Kingdom. The Irish name is Lishnegarvah, which they tell us signifies the Gamesters' Mount. For, a little to the south of the town there is a mount, moated about, and another to the southwest. These were formerly surrounded with a great wood, and thither resorted all the Irish outlaws, to play at cards and dice. One of the most considerable amongst them, having lost all his clothes, went in a passion in the middle of the night to the house of a nobleman in that county, who before had set a considerable sum on his head, and in this mood, surrendered himself, a prisoner, which the other considering of, pardoned him, and afterwards this town was built, when the knot of these rogues was broken, which was done chiefly by the help of this one man.

-- -- -- -- -- --

STATISTICAL SURVEY OF THE COUNTY OF ANTRIM,

BY THE REV. JOHN DUBOURDIEU,
Rector of Anahilt,
1812.

This volume contains some 765 pages and numerous maps and diagrams. It deals chiefly with the geographical state and circumstances of the County, Divisions, Civil and Ecclesiastical, Soil, Climate Minerals, Fossils, Water, Agriculture, Roads, Canals, Manufactures, Markets, Towns, Villages, Schools, Antiquities, etc. A large section is devoted to Belfast and its institutions.

Thirteen pages only are devoted to Lisburn, of this, seven pages are occupied with an account of the Battle of Lisnagarvey, 1641. It is stated that Lisburn contains about 800 houses, which, at six persons to each house, would make the population 4,812.

M'Donnell built a small monastery at Lambeg in the fifteenth century, for Franciscan friars of the third Order, but it is more likely that it was a nunnery, as one part of the churchyard is, even now in 1812, distinguished by the name of Nuns' Garden.

The final arrangement of the Baronies was made by Sir John Perrot in 1854, but, notwithstanding this settlement, it was a considerable time before if was completely acknowledged and acted upon, for, in the grand inquisition of the County of Down, held in the year 1622, Malone and Killultagh are said to lie in the County of Down.

-- -- -- -- -- --

TOURS IN ULSTER,

By J. B. DOYLE,
1854.

A few pages are devoted to Lisburn and district, but there is nothing of real interest to extract. The volume runs to almost 400 pages, and is beautifully illustrated.

-- -- -- -- -- --

A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND,

By C. T. BOWDEN,
1791.

This quaint little volume, 250 pages, has some items of interest scattered through its contents. Its outstanding feature, however, is its unsophisticated simplicity. The reference to Tandy is valuable as helping to fix the celebrated Napper Tandy's connection with Lisburn. Wm. Todd Jones was returned as member for Lisburn in 1783 to the Irish Parliament. He fought a duel with Sir Richard Musgrave and shot him through the body.

-- -- -- --

EXTRACTS.

"I went thither to Lisburn from Moira Castle, and had the pleasure of being introduced to Mr. Todd Jones, a gentleman of great repute in the political as well as the literary world. I was also introduced to Councillor Dunn, to a Mr. Tandy, brother of a celebrated patriot in Dublin, and to several other public spirited gentlemen, to whose obliging attentions I am infinitely indebted.

"The village of Johnstown in the south is remarkable for producing fine whiskey, which is spirituous liquor peculiar to Ireland. I informed the distiller that I had tasted his whiskey and that I had heard it greatly commended. He told me he did flatter himself he was fortunate in bringing it to as great a degree of sweetness as it could be brought to. He did this by causing a flow of water to pass over the worm, so as to keep it cool and temper the natural heat of the spirit, and preserve it from a burned or fiery taste."

"Thus in little more than two months I made the tour of Ireland -- the most romantic island in the world, and experienced every gratification a speculative mind could wish for. However prejudice may represent the Irish, certain it is, human nature is much the same here as in England. The common people are far removed from that semi-barbarous state, which is the general opinion on the other side of the water. They appear to me friendly, obliging, and sincere, at least those traits are stronger in their character than in that of the English peasantry."

-- -- -- -- -- --

TWO LETTERS FROM WILLIAM BASIL, Esq.,

Attorney General of Ireland;

The One,
   To the Right Honourable John Bradshaw, Lord President of the Council of State:

The other,
   To the Right Honourable William Lenthal, Esq., Speaker of the Parliament of England,


OF A GREAT VICTORY

Obtained by the Parliament's Forces in the North of Ireland, on the Plains of Lisnegarvy, against the enemy there:
    Wherein were 1,400 slain, Colonel John Hamilton taken prisoner, and seventeen more of quality.
    With a Relation of the taking of Drumcree, and of the surrender of Carrickfergus upon Articles.

Ordered by the Parliament that these letters be forthwith printed and published.
Hen: Scobell, Cleric. Parliamenti.

London, Printed by John Field for Edward Husband, Printer to the Parliament of England, 1649.

(Only one letter extracted.)

To the Right Honourable John Bradshaw, Lord President of the Council of State.

Right Honourable.

Since my last unto your Lordship, viz. on Thursday last, being the sixth of December instant, our forces in the North engaged with the forces of the enemy there, which consisted of that Party which the Lords of Ardes and Clanduboys brought with them out of Munster, and also of those under the command of George Munro, part whereof were formerly his own, and part were of Owen O Neals Ultoghs, in the whole consisting of about Two Thousand foot and eight hundred horse; their design was to relieve Carrickfergus, but were met withal by ours near unto Lisnagarvey. After some dispute between our forlorn and their rere-guard, at a boggy pass on the Plains of Lisnagarvey, their whole army were so frighted and disordered, that they were soon totally routed, and the chief work of our main body was only pursuit and execution, which was done effectually by the space of about eight or ten miles. Letters from the place speaks of a thousand of the enemy to be killed; but the messenger who brought the news hither, who was present at the work, affirms fourteen hundred; four hundred whereof were killed by a party commanded by Major King, son to Sir Robert King, who possessed himself of a pass, to which the enemy was likely to come; this was the place where George Monro swam over, who with the Lord of Ardes fled to Charlemount in great haste at the beginning of the business. All the enemies ammunition and baggage were taken, together with five hundred of their horses, and most of their foot officers; Colonel Henderson, a Scotchman, who betrayed Sligo to the Irish, was killed; Colonel John Hamilton, one other Scotchman, who killed O Conelly and burnt Lisnagarvey, is taken prisoner: also it is affirmed, that the Lord Clanduboys, and Phillip mac Mull Moor O Relly, one of the most active men amongst the rebels, are slain. Our party was in pursuit of the enemy when the messenger came away; we lost but one corporal of horse, and three private soldiers. Your Lordship may please further to understand, that Drumcree, a strong garrison of the enemies, being twelve miles from Trym, and a receptacle for the thieving tories, was upon Friday last was sevennight taken, by Major Stanley, Governor of Trym. To-morrow is the day whereon Carrickfergus is by Articles to be surrendered. Here are about one thousand three hundred landed from England since Saturday last. It is an exceeding great comfort to us all here, to see the good hand of God so evidently with us against our bloody enemies: He alone, I hope and pray, will settle peace and happiness in England and Ireland, in the continuance of these His mercies.

     My lord, I am your lordship's
          Most humble servant,
               WILLIAM BASIL.

Dublin, 12th Decemb.
     1649.

(To be Continued).

==========================

RECORDS OF OLD LISBURN.

Interesting Supplementary Items by "Historicus."

To The Editor, "Lisburn Standard."

Sir -- Among the very intetestfing Historical Records of old Lisburn published in your issue of the 30th March is a list of names, comprising the Troop of Lisburn Volunteer Cavalry. This list agrees with one published by you in a communication headed "History repeats itself," in your issue of 10th April, 1914, and was copied from the original account book of the troop for the year 1798, in which a double-page "Dr. and Cr." was devoted to each trooper's account.

Each trooper was styled Mr. (excepting the trumpeter), and received two guineas for "clothing money." He provided his own horse, and paid thirteen pence subscription per month to the troop funds. When up on permanent, duty his pay was 3s per day, and at intervals for parades, exercise, &c., 2s per day. A fine of 5s. 5d was inflicted for absence on field days, excepting when from home at a distance of over 10 miles. The troop was up on permanent duty from 6th to 30th June, and the entire month of July, 1798. At the foot of Mr. Wm. Coulson's account there is a note stating he "left the troop in the month of June, 1798, he having been appointed an officer of the Lisburn Infantry. He gave up his accoutrements and clothes and got his jacket and waistcoat." There is a similar entry at the foot of Mr. Francis Dobb's account, he leaving in the month of September.

In the general accounts of the troop there are several items of interest of which the following are a few:--
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

Paid as Turner for Ploughing of exercise field	£0	16	3
Paid Soldiers lor trimming the horses of the troop	1	2	9
Candles for Guard Room	0	1	10
Candlestick and Snuffers	0	2	8
Half a ton of coal	0	11	4½
Cloth and 2 jackets for the trumpeter	3	11	7
Trumpeter's Breeches	1	14	1½
Spurs for Trumpeter	0	6	6
Boots for Trumpeter	1	2	9
Feathers for Trumpeter's Cap	0	17	4
Lace and Chain for Trumpeter's Coat	3	3	9½
Drugs for Trumpeter's Horse	0	11	6
Shoeing Trumpeter's Horse	0	3	4
Trumpet	3	12	0
Paid Mr. John Rogers his bill for scarlet ooating for cloaks	13	2	0
Paid Yarr, Tailor, his bill for making 2 jackets for Trumpeter and 6 cloaks for the Troop	1	9	3
Paid Barbers for cutting and dressing the hair of the privates the morning of the Inspection	0	16	3
Paid Jas. Turner, for keeping Trumpeter's horse for 4 months	3	8	3
Dobbin's bill of expenses incurred by the Troop at Lurgan on 12th July	6	5	1½
Paid for getting road to exercise field repaired, and for printed directions for Sword Exercise	3	4	5½
Patrick M'Gowan for keeping the accounts of the Troop	6	0	0

          Yours truly,
               "HISTORICUS."
Lisburn, 5th April, 1917.

(This article was originally published in the Lisburn Standard on 13 April 1917 as part of a series which ran in that paper each week through 1917. The text along with other extracts can be found on my website Eddies Extracts.)

Track of King William and The Williamites in Ireland

SOME EXTRACTS

FROM THE

RECORDS OF

OLD LISBURN

AND THE

MANOR OF KILLULTAGH.

-- -- -- --

Edited by JAMES CARSON.

-- -- -- --

XXV.

-- -- -- --

TRACK OF 
KING WILLIAM 
AND THE WILLIAMITES 
IN IRELAND

-- -- -- --

From the "Belfast Weekly News," June 28th, 1890.

-- -- -- --

By RICHARD LILBURN.

-- -- -- --

Richard Lilburn was editor of the "Belfast Weekly News," and "Belfast News-Letter," and produced in the former a series of articles, on King William's movements in Ireland. In the same paper he wrote under the title "Chapters in the History of Orangeism" an exhaustive history of the Order. Lisburn and district are frequently referred to. Lilburn was obsessed with subject and wrote upon it minutely and voluminously. When editor of the "Armagh Guardian" he published in 1866 a treatise entitled "Orangeism; its Origin, Constitution, and Objects."

In the "Irish Book Lover," vol. II there is a short reference to Lilburn. The writer states:-- "The poor old man became obsessed with his subject, and almost buried beneath the mass of material. None the less the work is well worth reprinting." The novelist, Frankfort Moore, who wrought for a time on the staff of the "Belfast News-Letter" under Lilburn, in his "Journalist's Note Book," gives a humorous, but not very kind description of his chief.

In the "Ulster Journal of Archaeology, vol. I. -- 1858 -- under the title "King William's Progress to the Boyne," are to be found full and original notes on General Schomberg's sojourn in Lisburn, he had his head-quarters in Lisburn as early as January, 1689, and King William's progress through Lambeg, Lisburn, Blaris and Hillsborough.

-- -- -- --

From Belfast to Dundalk.

When King William left Belfast in the morning of June 19, 1690, the weather was variable, as is commonly the case in that month; and to satisfy the stories current, his Majesty's health must have been indifferent. According to tradition he had only reached the locality in which are the lodge and other gate premises of the Royal Botanic Gardens when he halted at a roadside thatched cottage, occupied by a Roman Catholic named M'Keown, whom he asked for a drink of water. The hostess, however, gave him milk, and the Royal gratitude was expressed in a grant of the holding. That property is now in the hands of the Belfast Corporation, and the site is occupied by a building which is an ornament even in an ornamental part of the city. The tradition survives the tracks of William.

HALTS AT THE ROOKERY (Cranmore)

About a mile further on the King again halted, this time at the mansion and grounds then known as the Rookery -- an appropriate name. The place was owned and occupied by Mr. John Eccles, members of whose family are still living near Fintona, in the County Tyrone. According to a well authenticated narrative his Majesty was overtaken by a heavy downpour of rain, and, observing some large trees near the road, he took shelter under one of them. Just then, Mr. Eccles approached the King, and tendered the use of his house to him and his staff. The invitation was accepted, and the Royal party was hospitably entertained. Those who have a right to know add that Mrs. Eccles was absent at the time, and had with her the key of the cellar; but this difficulty was removed by bursting the door open. After enjoying the creature comforts liberally provided, the King reposed for a short time on a bed, which was long preserved in the family, as were also the jug containing the ale supplied to his Majesty, the glass from which he drank, and the mirror he used. The jug or what remains of it, for the bronze lid was lost, was shown at the opening of Belfast Free Library. The mirror in still to be seen. During his visit the King was very agreeable in his manner, assumed no importance, and appeared most anxious that the family should not feel embarrassed. It is said that his Majesty gave Mr. Eccles a picture in which the King himself is seen, wearing at the time a chain made of Irish gold, and mounted on the proverbial white horse. When about to leave, his Majesty expressed a wish to confer the honour of a knighthood on the host; but he declined, saying that the King might do as he pleased for his son. The Royal visitor and his forces then proceeded on their journey, accompanied by young Mr. Eccles, who joined the army, and is supposed to be the Sir John Eccles, Knight, Lord Mayor of Dublin, in 1710, and after whom Eccles Street is called. The ash tree which afforded temporary shelter to William was for many years venerated by the Orangemen, who met there on the eve of the 12th of July, and marched round it several times. Finally, it was blown down in a storm, in 1796, which was fatal to the French fleet in Bantry Bay. The Orangemen then adopted the ash tree adjacent, and it also yielded to a storm in 1808. The place was known as Orange Grove, after the visit of the Prince of Orange; and when it became the property of Mr. Templeton he changed the name to Cranmore. The house is believed to have been built originally from the ruins of Mary's Abbey, near Malone Church. The Abbey was destroyed by Colonel Legge, who had the large blocks of stone placed on the ground as a foundation, and the grouting did the rest. When changes were being made in the original structure, a stone was found with an Irish cross carved on it. Cranmore helps us to trace the route of William and the Williamites. It is now the residence of Mr. Walter Wilson, of the eminent shipbuilding firm on the Queen's Island, Belfast.

Lambeg.

Another mile in the Royal route brought the King and his army to Malone House, owned and occupied by a Mr. Legge, who was said to have been a military officer, served under Schomberg in Flanders, and accompanied him to Ireland. The description is somewhat confused: but there is no doubt of the house being occupied by Mr. Legge, who was descended from a family holding ducal rank in Venice. It is now vacant, and belongs to Lady Harberton.

A little further on, the bugles sounded and there was a long halt in the vicinity of a mansion, then the property of the Wolfendens. It was close by the Lagan River, and, while cavalry and infantry were refreshing themselves, the King retired into the House, and was hospitably entertained. The original name of this beautifully-situated holding and residence, now owned and occupied by Mrs. Niven, was Waterside. When it passed into the hands of the Wolfendens, they called it Harmony Hill. The late Mr. Niven having bought the property he changed the name to Chrome Hill. Two hundred years ago there was no bridge built over the Lagan below this locality. The river had to be crossed by a ford, the remains of which are still visible; and while going down the steep hill to the ford the one of the gun-carriages was overturned and damaged, which caused delay to make the necessary repairs. During the time occupied in repairing, King William stopped in Mr. Wolfenden's house, and had some refreshment. The spot where the carriage was damaged is marked by an oak tree known as "King William's Oak." The chair he used is still extant, and the apartment he occupied is pointed out.

On reaching the village of Lambeg, the King experienced some difficulty in regard to the route. There were three roads -- one leading towards Lord Conway's racecourse; the other towards Collin; and the third led to Lisburn. Seeing a sturdy man at the door of a smithy, his Majesty inquired the way to Lisburn. The tone of voice and foreign pronunciation excited Rene Bulmer, for this was the smith's name, and in genuine French he replied to his Majesty who was amazed. The villagers having heard that a Royal personage was passing, assembled to gaze on the cavalcade; and; it was soon announced that Bulmer was a Hugenot who had fled from the persecution in France, and was carrying on the double duties of veterinary surgeon and blacksmith. When the Head of the Protestant interest was about to march forward, Bulmer was allowed to embrace him; and stooping from his horse, the King, saluted the refugee's wife, described as a handsome little Frenchwoman. The portrait of Madame Bulmer is in the possession of a lineal descendent, Mr. Rene Bulmer, of Old Park, Lisburn. Mrs. Niven is also a descendent. The name of Bulmer has changed to Boomer.

Reaches Lisburn.

At length the King and his forces reached Lisburn, then and still a place of considerable importance. Lord Conway was the virtual founder of the town. Having obtained a grant of Killultagh from Charles the First, he induced a number of English and Welsh families to settle in the locality, and in 1610 he erected a castle to protest himself and them; but in his time it does not seem to have been more than a village, containing only 53 tenements. The old name of Linsley-Garvin survived the alienation of the territory from O'Neill, a member of the Tyrone family. Later on, through the influence of Lord Conway, who was Secretary of State to Charles the Second, the town had secured the position of chief postal centre of the county; and letters were despatched tri-weekly for England, via Donaghadee, which was the great passenger port for Ulster. Lisburn holds a conspicuous place in Anglo-Irish history. In the troublous period beginning in 1641, it suffered severely, and was reduced to ruin, notwithstanding, the heroic exploits of its brave defenders, commanded by Sir George Rawdon. The town, however, was soon restored. Better streets were formed; better houses were built; and its improved condition excited the surprise and attracted the encomiums of the English and foreign soldiers who had been encamped in the neighbourhood during the winter of 1689 and the spring and part of the summer of 1690; but who were now -- June 18 -- with the enemy, at the Boyne.

Duke Schomberg. made Lisburn his headquarters. He resided in a house situate in Castle Street, nearly opposite to the entrance to the Cathedral. That house was rebuilt a great many years ago and became the property of the benevolent Quaker, Mr. John Hancock. It is now owned by Mr. Samuel Wilson. The town was seen for the first time by Story when Schomberg's troops marched to Blaris to take up winter quarters, on Monday the 2nd of September, 1689; and here is what he says of it:--

"This is one of the prettiest inland towns in the North of Ireland, and one it the most English-like places in the Kingdom; the Irish name is Lishnagarvah, which they tell me signifies the Gamesters-Mount; for a little to the North-east of the Town there is a mount, moated about, and another to the South-west; these were formerly surrounded with a great wood, and thither resorted all the Irish outlaws, to play at cards and dice, one of the most considerable amongst them having lost all, even his Cloaths, went in a Passion, in the middle of the night, to the House of a Nobleman in that Countrey, who before had set a considerable Sum on his head; and in this mood he surrendered himself his Prisoner, which the other considering of, pardon'd him; and afterwards this Town was built, when the knot of these rogues was broke; which was done chiefly by the help of this one man; the town is so modern, however, that Camden takes no notice of it.

Camden's Brittannia was published fifty-five years before the old obscure town was destroyed by the insurgents in 1641; and no one is surprised to hear that, in his imperfect sketch of Ireland the eminent English man did not mention Lisnegarvey. The new town, which was called Lisburn derived its name from a fort and a river and had nothing whatever to do with the Gamesters' Mount. Story, however, only wrote what he heard and the narrative is interesting in regard to the origin of Lisnagarvey, while it stands at a great distance from the source to which Lisburn is properly traced. The new town was still incomplete when Schomberg's troops marched through it to Blaris, leaving the General in his quarters in Castle Street, and a detachment of the army in temporary barracks in the same locality.

When the advance guard of William's army entered Lisburn a remnant of James's troops assembled in the Market Square. They had arrived just before the Williamites; but were speedily driven out of town by a party from the camp at Blaris. Captain Johnston who had charge of the camp during Schomberg's absence had the honour of providing refreshments for his Majesty in the residence of George Gregson, a Quaker. The captain's quarters were in Gregson's house, the site of which is at present occupied by the branch of the Northern Bank; and there the King and Schomberg dined. At the same time, Lady Mulgrave, widow of the last Earl Conway, entertained the officers of the army. His Majesty remained only a short time in the town; but he gave ample proof of his anxiety to promote the well-being of the population, which included many French Protestants who had fled from persecution after the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes. Among the refugees was Louis Crommelin, who was taken into his Majesty's service, and was supplied with money to promote the linen trade. Yea, more, the King sent several Hollanders to instruct Crommelin and his friends in the art of bleaching, so that the people might be able to grow the fibre, convert it into cloth, and then bleach it. The bleaching process was carried on at the Hilden Works, convenient to which a colony of foreigners resided; and down to the later years of last century the place was called New Holland Francis, first Baron Seymour Conway, who succeeded to the Killultagh and Derryvolgie estates in 1699, continued the patronage bestowed on Louis Crommelin, in relation to the land at Hilden the weaving, and the workers' residences.

King William's Thorn.

After marching some nine miles and when within a little over two Irish miles of Hillsborough, the Williamite forces for the third time found themselves in the immediate vicinity of the Lagan, which was on their right flank, and as usual the bugles sounded a halt, and the whole army was brought to a standstill. The men of all grades fell out of the ranks and dispersed through the fields, refreshing themselves from the river. The cavalry in the rere choose the banks of a stream which runs along the valley from Revarnet till it joins with the Lagan about a mile from Lisburn. Men and chargers enjoyed well-earned rest; and the place where they bivouacked was afterwards known as Troopers' Field. It is now in the possession of Messrs. Barbour, of Hilden, who acquired the property by purchase from the representatives of the late Captain Coulson. According to local tradition the rere guard remained there for a considerable time, the position being strategic as a cover for the advancing army, while preserving and keeping open the line of communication with Belfast, whence supplies would have to be drawn in the case of any serious interruption of the progress of the Royal Forces. The infantry were posted in the neighbourhood of Blaris, on the east and south-east of the Lagan river. Their position was examined by his Majesty; and during this hasty survey of his troops, William dismounted and had his horse tied to a thorn bush, which has ever since been known as "King William's Thorn." It still flourishes, and every Twelfth of July it is decorated with orange lilies. The relic is much esteemed in that part of the country; and the decoration was faithfully attended to by a veteran Orangeman, Mr. John Keery, who annually discharged this self-imposed labour of love for upwards of seventy years. He died at the advanced age of eighty-four years; and in his house and the house of his father Loyal Orange Lodge, No. 128, sat since the number was first issued, when rebellion was raging in '98, and Blaris Moor was again a vast military encampment, in which the loyal yeomanry had quartered. "King William's Thorn" was made famous by the commander-in-chief of the troops at Blaris issuing an order to include it in guard duty, the few Roman Catholics in the camp having shown a malicious desire to degrade the relic because of its associations. There is no doubt about the history of the thorn. It has been carefully preserved by the Keerys, Porters, and M'Camlays, of Blaris; and to-day it may be said to enter upon a new lease, as thousands will have heard of it for the first time. The Gilbert family, in whose land the famous whitethorn flourished, have passed away. They tended it with great care; manured the roots and trimmed the branches annually; and then the work was undertaken by the Keerys, whose house is about two hundred yards distant. The haws, of which there is in due season a large crop, have been sent to most parts of the civilised world, at the urgent request of loyal Irishmen, who sought new homes in the Colonies and in the United States of America. Separated, perhaps for ever, from the old home, they could not forget early-scenes -- the natural white bloom in spring, and the decoration with orange lilies in July -- and there hearts were with the "Thorn," the effective memorial of great events and of the King by whom they were accomplished. Of the genuineness of this relic there is ample proof. The late Dr. Cupples, Rector of Lisburn, is said to have heard from one of his parishioners who lived to the age of 110 years, that he recollected having seen his Majesty alight from his horse and throw the reins over the bush, the identity of which has never been disputed.

(To be Continued).


(This article was originally published in the Lisburn Standard on 6 April 1917 as part of a series which ran in that paper each week through 1917. The text along with other extracts can be found on my website Eddies Extracts.)