Extracts from Pigot & Cos. City of Dublin and Hibernian Provincial Directory, 1824.

SOME EXTRACTS

FROM THE
RECORDS OF
OLD LISBURN
AND THE
MANOR OF KILLULTAGH.

-- -- -- --
Edited by JAMES CARSON.
-- -- -- --

XXVIII.

-- -- -- --

PIGOT & COS.
CITY OF DUBLIN AND HIBERNIAN PROVINCIAL DIRECTORY. 1824.

LISBURN.

In the county of Antrim, is a borough and post town pleasantly situated on the banks of the Lagan by which it is separated from the county of Down, distant seven-three miles, north of Dublin, seven south of Belfast, fourteen south-east of Antrim, and sixteen north-north-west of Downpatrick. The parish church, which by patent from Charles II. was erected into a cathedral for the united dioceses of Down and Connor, is an extensive structure, and particularly distinguished for the architectural beauties of its fine lofty spire and steeple of cut stone. The Catholic Chapel has a plain external, hut the interior has a neat pleasing appearance. There are also here a Presbyterian Chapel, a meeting house for the Society of Friends, and two Methodist chapels. The vicinity of this town to Belfast in some measure prevents its rapidly increasing in extent; notwithstanding which the linen and corn trade are carried on with great spirit. The linen manufactured in this quarter has long obtained a decided preference in the markets. The corn market is likewise frequented as affording the best seed oats in the county. The linen-hall, where the weekly sales are made, is conveniently situated and sufficiently capacious; it was erected by the Marquis of Hertford, whose patronage the town enjoys. The inconvenience experienced for want of a suitable corn-market, will shortly be removed, it being in contemplation to erect a market-house by subscriptions, which now nearly amount to the sum requisite for its completion. The county infirmary in Castle Street contains upwards of sixty beds, and affords relief to twelve hundred out-patients; the surgical duties are ably fulfilled by Dr. Wm. Stewart, M.R.C.S. By the formation of a Philanthropic society in 1810, for the prevention of mendicity and the relief of beggars, great benefit has been derived. The industrious female, on application at the spinning institution, obtains the object of her wishes, constant employment; flax is distributed to her in small quantities upon security, rendering her independent of a supply of hucksters at the highest retail rate, and preventing the sacrifice of her labours to them, when the pressure of poverty deprives her of the power of waiting for a favourable market. A school for boys and another for girls on the Lancastrian system are supported by subscription. A Sunday school is held at the Presbyterian chapel, and by the legacy of the late John Hancock, Esq., a school has been built, which affords facilities of education to the youth of the Society of Friends. Previous to the Union Lisburn returned two members to parliament; now it sends only one; its present representative is Henry Seymour, Esq. The principal market is held on Tuesdays, and there is a minor one on Saturdays. There are two very considerable fairs on the 21st day of July and the 5th of October. The population is nearly 4,500.

Post Office, Castle Street.

Post Master, Mr. Sl. Gamble. The mail for Dublin and all by-roads is despatched at half-past five in the evening, and arrives at half-past eight in the morning. The mail for Belfast, north of England, and Scotland, is despatched at a quarter peat eight in the morning, and arrives at a quarter before six in the evening. The mail for Moira, Lurgan, etc., is despatched at six in the evening, and arrives at half-past seven in the morning.

Gentry and Clergy.

Boyes, Mrs. Jane, Bow Street.
Caldbeck, Wm., Esq., Castle Street.
Carleton, John, Esq., Bow Street.
Casement, Charles, Esq., Roseville.
Church, Miss Eleanor, Corn Market.
Clarke, Miss Eliz., Bow Street.
Cordner, Rev. Edward, Castle Street.
Craig, Rev. Andrew, Strawberry Hill.
Crawford, Miss Ann, Castle Street.
Crossley, John, Esq., Bow Street.
Cupples, Rev. Dr. Snowden, rector, Castle Street.
Cupples, Rev. Thomas, curate, Castle Street.
Delacherois, Nicholas, Esq., Castle Street.
Dempsey, Rev. Edward, P.P., Blaris.
Dubourdieu, Saumarez, Esq., Castle Street.
Fletcher, Rev. Philip, Castle Street.
Fulton, Mrs. Ann, Castle Street.
Fulton, Thomas, Esq., J.P., Castle Street.
Hancock, Mrs. Eliza, Bridge End.
Hawkshaw, Lieut-Col. John, Blaris Lodge.
Hawkshaw, William, Esq., Castle Street.
Heron, Lieut. Edward, R.N., H.P., Castle Street.
Heron, Samuel, Esq., Castle Street.
Higginson, Henry Theophilus, Esq., Registrar of Down and Connor, Castle St.
Higginson, Mrs., Bow Street.
Hogg, Wm., Esq., Castle Street.
Houghton, Major Rd. Springfield.
Jellet, Mrs. Anna Maria, Bow Street.
Johnson, Rev. Philip, Ballymacash.
Jones, Miss Mary, Castle Street.
Meade, Mrs. Ann, Castle Street.
Morewood, George, Esq., Castle Street.
Morewood, Rev. James, rector of Lambeg, Glebe.
Morgan, Rev. James, Castle Street.
Mussenden, Daniel, Esq., Larchfield.
O'Neill, Rev. High, P.C.
Richardson, Mrs. Joseph, Bow Street.
Simon, Capt. John, Corn Market.
Smyth, Miss Rose, Castle Street.
Smyth, Capt. Samuel, H.P., Castle Street.
Stannus, Rev. James, Castle Street.
Stewart, Major Wm., H.P., 30th foot Castle Street.
Trail, Rev. Archdeacon, Castle Street.
Younghushand, Mrs. Jane, Castle Street.
Warren, Mrs. Mary, Castle Street.
Watson, James. Esq., Brook Hill.
Whitla, George, Esq., Bow Street.

MERCHANTS, TRADESMEN, ETC.

Attorneys.
Hall & Legg, Castle Street.
Stephenson, George, Castle Street.

Physicians.
Stewart, Wm., M.R.C.S. Castle Street.
Whiteford, Hugh, Castle Street.

Surgeons.
Musgrave, Samuel, Corn Market.
Wethered, Thomas, Corn Market.

Academies.
Neely, Benj. (boarding and day) Castle St.
Rea, Jane (boarding and day), Castle St.

Agent.
Stannus, Rev James (to Lord Hertford), Castle Street.

Apothecaries.
Dickson, William, Bridge Street.
Thompson, William, Castle Street.

Bakers.
M'Clure, James, Castle Street.
M'Clure, John, Bridge Street.
Miller, Ruth, Market Square.
Sloan, Adam, Bridge Street.
Smyth, William, Bow Street.
White, James, Bow Street.
Woods, John (and confectioner), Bridge Street.

Blanket Manufacturer.
Wolfenden, Thomas, Lambeg.

Bookseller and Stationer.
Ward, James, Market Square.

Boot and Shoe Makers.
Isdell, James, Corn Market.
O'Donnell, Hugh, Corn Market.
Thompson, James, Market Square.
Thompson, Thomas, Market Square.
Wilson, Adam, Market Square.
Wilson, George, Bow Street.

Brewers.
Simpson & Graham, Corn Market.

Calico Printers.
Byrne, Pat, Longstone.
Gemmil & McPherson (and cotton spinners) Lambeg.

Chemical and Vitriol Manufacturers.
M'Cance & Hancock.

Grocers and Spirit Dealers.
Allister, Robert, Bridge Street.
Brownlee, Alex (and coal dealer) Bridge Street.
Clarke, Eliza, Bridge Street.
Ferguson, John, Bridge Street.
Gillen, John, Bow Street.
Greer, Richard, Bow Street.
Griffith, Peter, Castle Street.
Johnston, Samuel, Market Square.
Lawson, Alex, Market Square.
M'Kee, Samuel, Bridge Street.
Major, James, Bow Street.
Major, John, Corn Market.
Moore, John, Bow Street.
Murney, Thomas (and tobacconist), Market Square.
Murray, William, Corn Market.
Parker, Major, Corn Market.
Philip, William, Market Square.
Rogers, John G., Corn Market.
Rogers, John, Corn Market.
Rogers, Patrick, Market Square.

Haberdashers.
Bell, Abigail and Hannah, Bow Street.
Fox. Frances. Bow Street.
Hughes, Margaret, Bow Street.
M'Alister, Eliza, Castle Street.

Inns and Livery Stables.
M'Coomb, John (Hertford Arms), Castle Street.
Moore, George (Kings Arms), Market Square

Inspector of Roads.
Hunter, Joseph (and veterinary surgeon and Registrar to the Royal Down Corporation of Horse Breeders), Heron's Folly.

Linen Merchants and Bleachers.
Barcroft, Joseph, William, and John, Bow Street.
Coulson, J. W. W. and J. (damask) Market Square.
Curtis, Edward, Glenburn.
Greg, Dominick. Castle Street.
Hill, John Christopher, Bow Street.
Hogg, James, Castle Street.
Hunter, Alex, Dunmurry.
Hunter, William (and flour-miller, Dunmurry.
Moat, Robert and John, Dunmurry.
Richardson, James and John, Lisburn and Lambeg.
Williamson, Alex. Lambeg.
Williamson and Bell, Lambeg.
Williamson, Robert, and Co., Lambeg.
Wolfenden, John, Lambeg.

Linen Thread Manufacturers.
Barbour, John, Plantation.
Barbour, William, Hilden.

Merchants.
Barnesley, Richard, Bridge Street.
Kennedy, Samuel (corn and miller) Market Square.
Mulholland, Henry, Bridge Street.
Mulholland, Hugh (spirit), Bridge Street.

Milliners.
Colville, Mary and Margaret, Bridge Street.
M'Gee, Sarah, Bridge Street.

Muslin Bleacher.
Ward, James, Hilden.

Muslin Manufacturers.
Clark, John, Market Square.
Clark, John, Bridge Street.
Clarke, Saywell, Bridge Street.
Innes, George, Market Square.
Innes, William (and grocer), Castle St.
Kennedy, Wm. James (and wollen draper) Market Square.
M'Call, Robert, Corn Market.
Stewart, Robert, Bow Street.

Painters and Glaziers.
M'Cloy, Matthew, Bow Lane.
M'Cloy, Peter, Bridge Street.

Pawnbrokers.
Neely, Erskine, Corn Market.
Seed, Hugh, Corn Market.
Spence, Ann Jane, Corn Market.

Proctors of Down and Connor.
Dillon, William, Castle Street.
M'Gee, Henry Bell, Bridge Street.

Publicans.
Bell, Henry, Bow Street.
Carroll, William, Bow Street.
Christian, Richard, Market Square.
Clark, Jonathan, Bridge Street.
Corkin, James, Market Square.
Crookshank, John, Bridge Street.
Dawson, James, Bow Street.
Dawson, Judas, Bow Street.
Frazer, Thomas, Bridge Street.
Gawley, Richardson (and grocers), Corn Market.
Hanna, James, Corn Market.
Hodgin, William, Bow Street.
Johnson, James, Bridge Street.
M'Clure, Eliz., Corn Market.
M'Gurk, Arthur, Market Square.
Mussen, Richard, Corn Market.
Scandret, Joseph, Corn Market.
Simpson, George, Bridge Street.
Singer, Jane, Bridge Street.
Waring, Richard, Corn Market.
Winchester, John, Smithfield.

Saddlers.
M'Clure, Joseph, Corn Market.
M'Connell, Robert, Bow Street.
M'Dowell, John, Castle Street.
Murray, James, Bridge Street.
Murray, William, Corn Market.

Straw Bonnet Makers.
Kelly, Eleanor, Castle Street.
M'Caughtery, Amelia, Market Square.

Tailors.
Boyd, Hugh, Castle Street Street.
Yarr, William, Bow Street.

Tallow Chandlers.
Dickey, Adam, Bow Street.
Mussen, James, Market Square.
Mussen, Matthew, Corn Market.
Pelan, George, Corn Market.

Tanners.
Beatty, Joseph, Bow Street.
Beatty, Thomas, Bow Street.
Graham, Wm., Corn Market.

Woollen Drapers.
Bell, Ann, Market Square.
Colville, James, Bridge Street.
Fulton, Isabella, Market Square.
Kennedy, William James, Market Sq.
M'Clure, Robert, Corn Market.
Moorhead, Joseph, Corn Market.
Smith, John, Corn Market.

Miscellaneous.
Anderson, Hugh, Cart-maker, Linenhall Street.
Dixon, Charles, Watch maker, Bow Street.
Dornan, James, Whitesmith, Bridge St.
Douglas, James, tobacconist, Bow Street.
Hawthorn, Moses, wheelwright, Heron's Folly.
Herron, John, cabinet-maker, Smithfield.
Kelly, Henry, shuttle maker, Bridge St.
M'Donald, William, cart maker, Bow St.
M'Donnell, William, wheelwright, Bow St.
Patterson, James, seedsman, Bridge Street.
Weldon, Christopher, whitesmith, Linenhall Street.
Wiley, Alexander, watch maker, Bow St.

Stamp Office.
Garrett, Robert (and Inspector of linens), Bow Street.

Coaches.
The Dublin Royal Mail, from Belfast, passes through at six in the morning, and returns at half-past eight in the evening.

The Fair Trader Day Coach passes through from Belfast to Dublin, at a quarter past six in the morning, and returns at seven in the evening.

Two coaches start from the Hertford and King's Arms, for Belfast, at half-past nine in the morning, and return at seven in the evening.

-- -- -- -- -- --

NOTES OF THREE TOURS IN IRELAND
in 1824 and 1826.

BY J. GLASSFORD.

(Extract from the Introduction).

The following notes were written during the course of several journeys, undertaken for the purpose of examining the state of Education in Ireland as conducted in the various schools and seminaries supported, in whole or in part, by grants from the public revenue, and among these, a more especial manner, the elementary and common schools for the people at large, including the operations of those societies which are occupied, in that country, with the important work of popular education.

EXTRACTS.

Proceeded to Lisburn; visited the free school connected with Capel Street Association for discountenancing vice; 180 on roll, of whom 99 Church of England, 65 Presbyterians, the other 16 Roman Catholics. The Scriptures read once a week by all the children. A circulating library, furnished by the Kildare Street Society, is kept in the school for the use of the pupils.

Went afterwards to the interesting establishment of the Quakers at Prospect Hill, called the Ulster Provincial School; seems excellently arranged for the health, comfort, and training of the children, particularly their moral discipline; 18 boys and same number off girls educated, boarded, and clothed; house well appointed and kept in the best manner, with garden, dairy, etc. The pupils pay £4 each on entering the school, but if the parents cannot afford to pay, the society does; annual expense of each pupil is about £21 they are received from the ages of three to fourteen; thoroughly instructed in geography, as well as reading, writing, and arithmetic, the girls taught by a governess and assistant, the boys by a master; he gives preference to Lindley Murray's books for English: uses Ruddiman's Latin Rudiments for the boys; some of the girls taught drawing as well as needlework, etc.; specimens of their reading and writing of the very best kind; some read from "Young's Night Thoughts" in the most correct manner: all capable of explaining what they read; showed also great proficiency in parsing and analysing the language: a thorough English education is the object professed. The appearance of this school is in all respects satisfactory; everything uniform, well contrived, and substantial without show; children remarkably clean, seemed healthy, animated and happy; at ease and self-possessed, with good demeanour; not forward, but ready; clothes plain, not remarkable from uniformity or studied costume; nothing, to outward appearance, seemed censurable or wanting; most of the children are apprenticed from the seminary, and in request as soon as ready. An apprentice, girl, trained in the house, assists the mistress in the care of the house. The school rooms well fitted up with all requisites suitable. The house can admit 45 in all. This society possesses some lands, and has received considerable bequests.

Lisburn is a prosperous manufacturing town, noted particularly for its fine damask: the ornamental finishing carried to great perfection, notwithstanding the defective looms, which are seemingly very old, and with much complication of the machinery.

Proceeded by the course of the Lagan, through a well cultivated country abounding with printing and bleaching establishments, and with all the marks of industry, to Belfast, within the county of Antrim, at the junction of the Lagan with Belfast Lough. The situation fine, with extensive view. This capital of the North bids fair to outstrip the towns as yet larger of the South; is more pleasing than Dublin, in the general neatness of the dwellings, and absence of the squalid crowds and idleness which there repulse. The people of this part of Ireland, Down and Antrim, are chiefly descended from Scotch settlers, and much intercourse exists between the two countries. In the features and dress, and even language of the people, little difference is discerned, and the general aspect of the country is nearly the same with that of Scotland. Oatmeal much used in the food of the people.

(This article was originally published in the Lisburn Standard on 27 April 1917 as part of a series which ran in that paper each week through 1917. The text along with other extracts can be found on my website Eddies Extracts.)

Extracts from A Tour in Ireland 1776-79 and 1813-1814.

SOME EXTRACTS

FROM THE
RECORDS OF
OLD LISBURN
AND THE
MANOR OF KILLULTAGH.

-- -- -- --
Edited by JAMES CARSON.
-- -- -- --

XXVII.

-- -- -- --

TOUR IN IRELAND;
WITH
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON 
THE PRESENT STATE OF THAT KINGDOM.

Made in the years 1776, 1777, 1778, and brought down to the end of 1779.

By ARTHUR YOUNG, F.R.S.

The edition published in 1892 is in two volumes, and contains an introduction by A. W. Hutton and a list of Young's works. He was a voluminous writer on Agriculture and kindred subjects.

The "Tour in Ireland was first issued in 1780.

Referring to Dromore, he described it as a "miserable nest of dirty mud cabins." Hillsborough is lightly touched upon. In regard to Lisburn, he confines himself to some particulars and statistics relating to the linen industry.

EXTRACT.

Reached Lisburne, and waited on the Bishop of Downe, who was so obliging as to send for an intelligent draper, to give me such particulars as I wanted of the manufacture in that neighbourhood.

About this place chiefly fine cloth, from 14 to 21 hundred. The spinners are generally hired by the quarter, from 10s to 12s lodging and board, and engaged to spin 5 hanks of 8 hank yarn in a week.

To the 14 hund. linen 46 hanks -- 18 ditto 58 hanks -- 21 ditto 66 hanks.

In weaving it is common for one man to have several looms, at which journeymen weavers work, who are paid their lodging and board, and one-third of what they earn, which may come to 2s a week on an average.

The drapers advance the yarn, and pay for the weaving by the yard. For a 13 hund. 4d. -- 18 ditto 9d. -- 21 ditto 1s 1½d. for 18 hund. linen, a woman spins 6 hanks a week, which 6 hanks weigh about a pound, at the price of 8d. a hank. The manufacture carried on in the country very much by little farmers, who have from 5 to 10 acres; and universally it is found, that going to the plough or spade for a day or two spoils them for their weaving as many more. Think that flax that has stood till seed is ripe, will not do for more than a 1600 web. Rent for sowing flax on potato land 4d. a perch long of 21 feet and 10 broad. The crop at a medium 10 stone from a bushel of seed. The stone 16lb. A stone of good flax, rough, will produce 8lb. after heckling and spin into it as many hanks per lb. as the sort is; that is 6 hanks of 6 hank-yarn, 7 of 7. The weavers, spinners, etc., live in general on potatoes and milk, and oat-bread, and some of them meat once a week. Will work only for support; meal and cloth never cheap together, for when meal is cheap they will not work. Rent of land from 10s to 22s.

Leaving Lisburn, took the road to Belfast, repeating my enquiries; in a few miles I found the average rent 16s per Cunningham acre. Much flax sown, three bushels and a half of seed generally sown to an acre. Eight stone of flax, from half a bushel of seed, is reckoned a very good crop. If they have not land of their own for sowing, they pay 12s rent for what half a bushel requires: this is £4 4s per acre, but it includes ploughing, harrowing, and getting ready for the seed.

Rent, etc.	£4	4	0
Weeding	0	5	0
Pulling, 12 women at 8d a day	0	8	0
Watering, damming, and stones, 6 men a day at 9d.	0	4	6
Taking and grassing, 6 women a day	0	4	0
Taking, lifting, and drying, generally in the sun, 6 women 1 day	0	4	0
None rippled Scuthing at mills, 1s 4d a stone 56 stone	3	14	8
	£9	4	2

Produce.

56 stone at 9s 4d	£26	2	8
Expenses	9	4	2
Profit	£16	18	6

Heckling is 1s 2d a stone, and half the weight is lost; the produce will be 4lb. flax and 4lb. tow, which the Scotch generally buy at 3d a lb. To a stone heckled there are 96 hanks; and to the web of cloth there are 28 hanks, for the weft, and 30 for the warp. A weaver is three weeks in doing it, and is paid 17s. From Lisburn to Belfast, on the River Lagan, there are 12 or 18 bleach greens. The counties of Downe and Antrim are computed to make to the amount of £800,000 a year, and near one-third of it in this vale.

-- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

A TOUR IN IRELAND

in 1813 and 1814,

By AN ENGLISHMAN.

There is a reference to the author of this book in the "Irish Book Lover," vol. II. A correspondent writes: --

On the title-page of my copy of "A Tour in Ireland," 1813-1814, under the words "by an Englishman" is written in pencil "John Gough, a Quaker of Dublin."

The volume runs to 320 pages and contains a large amount of varied information regarding the Ireland of one hundred years ago.

EXTRACTS.

After a continuance of about five weeks in and about Belfast, I proceeded to Lisburn, seven miles, through a most beautiful country, whether we consider it in its natural state, or in its present high degree of cultivation, which exceeds anything that I have seen, except in the immediate neighbourhood of large cities. Fine houses, plantations, church spires, mountains, bleach greens every where diversify the scene, together with a great number of neat white washed cabins at the road side; so that the whole seven miles appear like one large and beautifully scattered village?

Lisburn is the handsomest country inland town I have seen in Ireland, and hardly to be equalled in England. It is situated on the southern confines of the County of Antrim, seventy-three miles N. of Dublin, and seven miles S.W. of Belfast. It consists of three principal streets, at the junction of which is the market place. These streets are handsomely built of brick the houses in general three storeys high, and mostly in the modern style, they are also well paved, and kept clean; in particular that called Castle Street, the neatness of which is unequalled in any country inland town in which I have over been.

There are likewise some smaller streets, and several lanes in the town, which, with a few exceptions, consist of thatched cabins. The whole number of the houses in the town and suburbs are about seven hundred and the inhabitants are supposed to exceed four thousand. In this year (1841) the return made under the population act, was, houses in the two Constable-wicks 832 inhabitants 4875; but as these two Constable-wicks extend a short way into the country, on three sides of the town, I think the calculation above may be pretty correct.

The late possessor of this town (the first Marquis of Hertford) did little to encourage improvements therein; very seldom visiting the estate here, which is one of the best in Ireland, and indeed I cannot find that he was ever in Ireland since his vice-royalty in 1765, and he lived more than thirty years after it. But his successor, the present marquis, upon coming to the estate, immediately paid it a visit, and left marks here of his princely munificence. At a very considerable expense, he erected a tall spire on the steeple of the parish church, as also a steeple and cupola to the market, house, which are great ornaments to the town. I was informed by some of the inhabitants, that he contributed but seven hundred and fifty pounds to these purposes, viz., five hundred pounds for the church, and two hundred and fifty for the market house, and that the remainder of the expense, which must have been great, was raised by a tax on the inhabitants. Now to this insinuation, I cannot possibly give credit; nor that a nobleman possessed of such a princely fortune, as the marquis, in ready money, and from the many offices which he holds at court, as well as from the annual receipt of forty thousand pounds from this estate in Ireland, would admit any partner in the expense of these ornaments, nor subject his tenants to a tax, for what could not possibly be of the smallest benefit to them. If this were really the case (which I think very improbable), the inhabitants of Lisburn must ardently wish, that their noble landlord should hereafter pay them as little attention as his father did.

The Public Buildings in Lisburn are

1st. The parish church, near the centre of the town, a large building, erected in 1708, neat and commodious, with a very good steeple about ninety feet high, on which, as before-mentioned, has been built a very tall and most elegant spire, which, in proportion to its base, has the greatest altitude of any I have seen. The height of the whole from the ground may be about one hundred and ninety feet. As the members of the Established Church are very numerous in this town, they have thought in building an addition to the church; but, as it is already a large building, I think it would be more eligible to erect a chapel of ease, on the rising ground near the S.W. end of the town, about a quarter of a mile from the present church, which, if adorned with a spire, would add much to the beauty of the view.

2nd. The Presbyterian meeting-house, a large modern building, very neatly finished with a surrounding gallery and good pews.

3rd. The Methodist meeting-house, on the very same plan, but a smaller scale than the foregoing.

4th. A second Methodist meeting-house belonging to the new itinerancy, has been lately erected.

5th. The Quakers' meeting-house, rebuilt in 1794, a neat modern structure.

6th. The Romish Chapel, a new building erected about the year 1780, by a general subscription among the inhabitants of the town. These six places of worship are generally well filled on Sundays.

7th. The linen-hall is a large square court, partly surrounded by a piazza of brick. Here is held a weekly market of unbleached linen, to the average amount of at least three thousand pounds.

8th. The market-house is a good building, over which is a ball-room fifty feet by twenty-five in the clear, and other smaller apartments. Some time ago this markethouse had a handsome steeple to it, with a clock and bell; but being decayed by length of time, it was taken down about the year 1772, and re-built as high as the roof of the house, in which state it remained about thirty years, during the life of the late marquis, but, as before observed, the present marquis, on his accession to the estate, caused it to be finished in a style far more elegant than its former condition. It now has a steeple of white freestone, ornamented with columns, and crowned with a beautiful cupola; in the whole about ninety feet high. In this steeple is a good clock with four dials, and a chiming bell. Adjoining this market house are about half a dozen mean houses, between it and the principal street. Had the landlord added to his munificence, the expense of purchasing the private right in those houses, thrown them down, and in their room erected a handsome front to the market-house, then brought the steeple some yards more distant from the church, it would have added much to the beauty of the whole. At present those two elegant steeples are so near together, as to take much from the effect of either.

Institutions.

I understand that some time ago there was a poor school established in the old French Church in this town, a building for many years disused; but being in Castle Street, and in the neighbourhood of the quality, who could not bear to have the children of the canaille so near them, interest was made with the agent of the estate to have the school discontinued there, and the subscribers have not since been able to get so eligible a place for it. However it is still continued in a temporary and inconvenient room, by two young men who first established it. There are also two free schools for girls, one of which usually contains upwards of fifty children.

There is also in this town a philanthropic society, which, weekly distributes from six to twelve pounds to the poor, raised by public contributions, by which aid, though mendacity be not altogether prevented, it is considerably lessened. The infirmary of the County of Antrim is in this town, though on the very edge of the county; about thirty years ago I was very curious to know why it was-not in a more central part, and was informed, that its being erected in Lisburn, was on account of the number of quality in the town, to help to support it; but all I could find the quality did for it, was their establishing a dancing assembly, to be held every fortnight in the market-house, the profits accruing from which were to go to its support; but as the subscription for each individual was but one guinea per year, and none but quality properly introduced, were admitted as subscribers, there could not be much left for the infirmary, after paying for the music and tea for twenty-six assemblies. Added to this, on the bishops annual visitation of the clergy of the dioceses of Down and Connor, which is always held in Lisburn, there was a ball held for their entertainment, admission to which cost each person the sum of half a crown; to this were admitted all that could pay; of course the quality seldom graced it with their presence. The profits of this ball were frequently ten pounds or more, a sum much larger than the whole year's produce of the assembly; and these were the advantages of having the county infirmary twenty miles distant from its centre. By additional subscriptions from some of the inhabitants of the town, who were born since the time I have just spoken of, it is also made a dispensary for the immediate vicinity.

These people who call themselves the quality in Lisburn consist of a few families of small estates, on which they live without following business, and look down with sovereign contempt on such as do; except a few linen drapers who are admitted to associate with them, and both together despise such as keep shops; though many shopkeepers not only in Dublin, but in Belfast might in turn treat them with contempt.

I remember the first time that I was in Lisburn, I had an introductory letter to one of those high and mighty linen drapers who in consequence invited me to go with him to the club, where I was introduced to some of the principal inhabitants, spent a pleasant evening, and supped on most excellent oysters, at my own expense.

Linen Trade.

The trade of Lisburn consists mostly in the manufacture of fine linens and muslins, which employs a great number of hands. The linen manufacture in Ireland was first established here, by Lewis Cromeline, a French Refugee, in the reign of King William the Third; his descendants now form one of the most respectable families in the neighbourhood.

In Lisburn, in 1766, the late William Coulson, established the manufacture of damask on an extensive scale, and in a degree of perfection hitherto unequalled where this beautiful branch of the linen business is now carried on by his sons John and Wm. Coulson, who, by their attention, have brought it to vie with any thing of the kind in Europe. Foreign courts as well as that of St. James's, have been supplied with table linen from their manufactory.

The machinery of the looms, on which this cloth is wrought (some of which are furnished with five thousand sets of pullies); is of so complicated a nature as to preclude the possibility of giving such a description, as could convey an adequately clear idea to a person that had never seen it, and of the method made use of to shew a pattern or picture on a ground, where ground and pattern are both equally colourless; yet, though the weft and the warp are both white, the pattern when worked into cloth, assumes quite a different degree of shade from that of the rest of the web. -- "Survey of Antrim."

There are several good shops here, and a large market of linen and other goods weekly. A neat and handsome flesh market, has been lately erected in a retired situation, but the quantity of the meat exposed to sale, appeared to me very small in proportion to the size and consequence of the town.

The neat street in Lisburn called Castle Street, is in some measure disfigured by a wall at part of one side, and a short walk with trees at the edge; but a gate in the centre opens to a most beautiful terrace, free to the public; below this for a considerable extent are hanging gardens, to the depth of at least fifty or sixty feet, from the level of the street to the river. From the upper terrace is a most delightful prospect, of a country highly improved, and extending thirty miles, with the beautiful meanders of the river Lagan. This place goes by the name of the Castle Gardens, from an old castle that formerly stood there, inhabited by the Conway family, ancestors of the Marquis of Hertford; but being transplanted into the warmer soil of London, their descendants suffered the venerable old mansion to go to decay, not a vestige of which now remains; but I understand the present marquis intends to expend one year's income of his Irish estate in erecting a modern edifice there, with one front towards the declivity, and another to the street, and demolishing the old wall, to replace it with iron palisades, which will add much to the splendour of this pretty town; and should he and his family reside three months annually in this new house (as I hear is his intent) it may prove of infinite service to his tenantry. But while most of the palaces of bishops and other noblemen are daily converting into barracks, stables or brewhouses, we can hardly hope that this benevolent design should be put into practice; and that any new houses should be erected by the nobility or gentry of Ireland in their native country, must appear an idea totally visionary.

Notwithstanding that the appearance of Lisburn has much improved of late years, by the rebuilding of many of its old houses, yet, in size and consequence, it appears quite stationary; and I cannot find that there has been one house erected on a new foundation in the town, within the last forty years. The inhabitants in general have leases in perpetuity, of the ground on which their houses stand; but all the lands in the neighbourhood remain in the disposal of the marquis, who lets them as town parks, to the inhabitants, as tenants at will, at very moderate rents; but, were they so inclined, they could not obtain building leases. Perhaps one reason of this discouragement of improvement, may be, that this is a potwallowping borough, wherein the inhabitants have each a legal right to vote for the member returned to parliament, and the more such a borough rises in consequence, the more difficult it becomes for the landlord to dispose of the people's constitutional rights. The people of Lisburn have sometimes exerted those rights, and there have been very disagreeable contests at elections among them; but wherever there is freedom of debate there will be difference of opinion.

The river Lagan, on the northern bank of which Lisburn stands, has been made navigable from Belfast, and since that a canal opened to Lough Neagh; but I cannot find that they have been of much service to either town, owing to some mismanagement.

Lisburn was formerly called Lisnagarvey, but being consumed by fire in 1707, it has from that time borne the name of Lisburn. Though such an accident must at the time be very calamitous, yet the town has received many benefits therefrom being rebuilt in a more substantial manner than before, and to prevent such a dreadful accident in future, one fire engine is kept in the town, I suppose in constant readiness, though I recollect some years ago, by the neglect of the landlord's agent, it was useless. To supply this engine, as well as for the use of the inhabitants, the town is supplied with pipe water from a reservoir in the neighbourhood, after the manner of the metropolis.

The Marquis of Hertford has a very fine estate here extending twelve or thirteen Irish miles in length, nearly as much in breadth, and containing about seventy thousand English acres, well inhabited not only by industrious people, but many of opulence. The whole of this great dominion is compact together, without any other person's land in any part intervening. On it are seven handsome parish churches, four or five Presbyterian meeting-houses, two for quakers, three or four Romish chapels, and as many for Methodists.

(To be continued.)

(This article was originally published in the Lisburn Standard on 20 April 1917 as part of a series which ran in that paper each week through 1917. The text along with other extracts can be found on my website Eddies Extracts.)

Track of King William and The Williamites in Ireland (part 2)

SOME EXTRACTS

FROM THE
RECORDS OF
OLD LISBURN
AND THE
MANOR OF KILLULTAGH.

-- -- -- --

Edited by JAMES CARSON.

-- -- -- --

XXVI.

-- -- -- --

TRACK OF 
KING WILLIAM 
AND THE WILLIAMITES 
IN IRELAND

-- -- -- --

From the "Belfast Weekly News," June 28th, 1890.

-- -- -- --

By RICHARD LILBURN.

-- -- -- --

(Continued.)

Arrives at Hillsborough.

In the evening of the 19th of June, William and the Williamite forces arrived in Hillsborough, nothing remarkable having occurred during the march from Lisburn. The town, which was then and still is, the property of the titled family of Downshire, whose name it bears, was incorporated by charter of 14th Charles II., and the Corporation was styled "The Sovereign, Burgesses, and Free Commons of the Borough and Town of Hillsborough." Its political history is very interesting to the loyal men of Ulster. There the Council of the Antrim Association met at stated times, in 1688, and deliberated in regard to the means to be adopted for the defence of the lives, liberties, and properties of the Protestants of the North. There, also, had been Schomberg and his army, on Tuesday the 3rd of September, 1689, on their way to Loughbrickland. And a weary way it was; for what the Protestants spared in the flight from their homes; the Jacobites destroyed, so that in the district not a sheep nor a cow was to be seen; the track of Schomberg and his men was through ruin. Now the King himself and his forces had arrived. As already stated the castle had been prepared to receive and accommodate his Majesty. It was a magnificent structure, built by Sir Arthur Hill, in 1641-2, and consisted of four bastions. Bonnivert describes it as "a great house belonging to the King, standing on a hill on the left hand of the road;" and in a certain sense the Frenchman was right. The site was chosen so that the fort might command the Pass of Kilwarlen, the chief road between Belfast and Dublin. Accordingly, it was strongly fortified within, and had the additional strength afforded by a trench. At the close of the year 1660, it was made a Royal garrison, and placed in command of a Constable, who received 3s 4d a day, having under him twenty-four warders whose pay was each 6d a day. The constableship was vested in the Hill family for ever.

As might be expected, the old Castle in the demesne is much venerated by loyal men. There his Majesty remained two days, and strangers are still shown relics of the Royal visit. They have pointed out to them the apartments he occupied; the chair on which he sat; the table on which he wrote his Orders; the window opposite which chair and table stood; the bedstead on which he slept; the stable in which his horse was put up; the situation of the gardens, and the direction in which he walked -- in fact, everything is to be seen but the King himself. More interesting than the silent witnesses is the testimony borne by the successors of the original warders. They are regularly on duty at the new Castle of Hillsborough, wearing the uniform, somewhat modernised, of the Dutch Guards -- blue coat with red lappels; cocked hat trimmed with white lace, and for plume a red feather; white breeches and gaiters.

From the Court at Hillsborough, his Majesty, issued two important documents One was a Royal Warrant, addressed to Christopher Carleton, collector of customs at Belfast, authorising the payment of £1,200 yearly to the Presbyterian ministers of Ulster. This is understood to be the origin, of the grant called "Regium Donum." The pension was inserted in the Civil List, and made. payable out of the Exchequer. Here is a copy of the Warrant:--

"Whereas, upon our arrival in this kingdom at Belfast, we received a loyal and dutiful address from our trusty and well-beloved subjects, Patrick Adair, etc., in the name of themselves and the rest of the Presbyterian ministers of their persuasion in these northern parts of our kingdom: and calling to mind how early they also were in their address unto us upon our arrival in England, and the promises we then made them of a pension of eight hundred pounds per annum, for their subsistence, which, by reason of several impediments, hath not as yet been made effectual unto them: and being assured of the peaceable and dutiful temper of our said subjects, and sensible of the losses they have sustained and their constant labour to unite the hearts of others in zeal and loyalty towards us: We do hereby, out of our Royal Bounty give and grant unto them the sum of twelve hundred pounds per annum, to be paid by quarterly instalments, the first payment of three hundred pounds sterling, to begin upon the 24th day of this instant June, and so forward: and our will and pleasure is, that you, or the collector of our customs at Belfast for the time being, do make the payments of the said pension into the hands of Mr. Patrick Adair, Alexander Hutchinson, Archibald Hamilton, Robert Craghead, Hugh Wilson, Robert Henry, and William Adair, or to the person which they, or any five of them shall appoint, to be by them distributed among the rest. And for so doing this shall be your warrant.

"Given at our Court at Hillsborough the 19th day of June, 1690, in the second year of our reign."

Arrives at Loughbrickland

The march from Hillsborough to Schomberg's former camping ground at Loughbrickland was uneventful. Portions of the old road still remain, and their roundabout and up and down hill construction shows the difficulty a large army had to encounter. In fact, the journey was over a way little more than the breadth of a modern sidepath. Schomberg and his men had travelled the same route on the 3rd September, 1689, and encamped at Dromore, where the forces of the Antrim Association had been routed by Lieutenant-General Hamilton, the defeat being known as the "Break of Drummore." The Duke's camp had been on the side of a hill beyond Loughbrickland, and his troops were decimated by sickness and death. King William, however, selected a new site for his army, and spent his time in reviewing regiment after regiment.

Dalrymple says he threw a march past into a review. Instead of keeping one position, he rode amongst the regiments as soon as they appeared, to encourage the soldiers, and to satisfy himself of their condition. An order having been brought to him to sign for wine for his table, he said aloud, "No, he would drink water with his soldiers." He slept every night in his own moveable house in the camp, was all the day on horseback, flew from place to place to survey the army or the country, and trusted nothing to others. While at one time he brought up the rere, with an anxiety which engaged the affection of all ranks; at another, with a spirit which inflamed them, he was the foremost in advance parties, if danger seemed to threaten, or the object to be known was of importance.

His Majesty arrived at Loughbrickland on the 22nd of June, in the morning of which day, a party of two hundred foot and dragoons going from Newry to Dundalk to discover the Jacobites, were surprised and suffered severely. The Williamites were commanded by Captains Crow and Farlow, and at a narrow pass four hundred of the Jacobites lay in ambush. The encounter resulted in the defeat of the Williamites, 22 of whom were killed and the two officers taken prisoners. Captain Farlow was the first who gave James a certain account of King William being in Ireland; for till then he would not believe it. The Jacobites were so elated with their triumph that they clamoured for a general engagement.

At Dundalk.

On the 24th of June the camp at Loughbrickland was broken up, and William's forces moved in the direction of the Jacobite encampment, which was then near Dundalk. On the 27th the King and his men reached the place, and encamped about a mile south of the town. According to the Royal order, all his Majesty's forces mustered there, and numbered 36,000. Same day, the Jacobites made a retrograde movement as far as Dunblane.

-- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

BELFAST AND ITS ENVIRONS, WITH A TOUR TO THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY,

BY J. H. SMITH, M.A., M.R.I.A.
1853.

This little volume of 144 pages contains a breezy description of Belfast, and numerous towns and objects of interest in the North of Ireland. About ten pages are devoted to the Giants' Ring, Ballylesson, Lisburn, and the Round Towers of Drumbo and Trummery.

The author thus refers to the original name of Lisburn. -- Linsley Garvin was the name by which Lisburn was known till within the last century, this was more commonly written Lisnagarvey; and the etymology given, for it by Dean Story, who wrote about 1690, is so curiously illustrative of the stories of the Irish current in his day, that it seems worth being preserved. Lisburn, he informs us, is one of the most English places in the Kingdom. The Irish name is Lishnegarvah, which they tell us signifies the Gamesters' Mount. For, a little to the south of the town there is a mount, moated about, and another to the southwest. These were formerly surrounded with a great wood, and thither resorted all the Irish outlaws, to play at cards and dice. One of the most considerable amongst them, having lost all his clothes, went in a passion in the middle of the night to the house of a nobleman in that county, who before had set a considerable sum on his head, and in this mood, surrendered himself, a prisoner, which the other considering of, pardoned him, and afterwards this town was built, when the knot of these rogues was broken, which was done chiefly by the help of this one man.

-- -- -- -- -- --

STATISTICAL SURVEY OF THE COUNTY OF ANTRIM,

BY THE REV. JOHN DUBOURDIEU,
Rector of Anahilt,
1812.

This volume contains some 765 pages and numerous maps and diagrams. It deals chiefly with the geographical state and circumstances of the County, Divisions, Civil and Ecclesiastical, Soil, Climate Minerals, Fossils, Water, Agriculture, Roads, Canals, Manufactures, Markets, Towns, Villages, Schools, Antiquities, etc. A large section is devoted to Belfast and its institutions.

Thirteen pages only are devoted to Lisburn, of this, seven pages are occupied with an account of the Battle of Lisnagarvey, 1641. It is stated that Lisburn contains about 800 houses, which, at six persons to each house, would make the population 4,812.

M'Donnell built a small monastery at Lambeg in the fifteenth century, for Franciscan friars of the third Order, but it is more likely that it was a nunnery, as one part of the churchyard is, even now in 1812, distinguished by the name of Nuns' Garden.

The final arrangement of the Baronies was made by Sir John Perrot in 1854, but, notwithstanding this settlement, it was a considerable time before if was completely acknowledged and acted upon, for, in the grand inquisition of the County of Down, held in the year 1622, Malone and Killultagh are said to lie in the County of Down.

-- -- -- -- -- --

TOURS IN ULSTER,

By J. B. DOYLE,
1854.

A few pages are devoted to Lisburn and district, but there is nothing of real interest to extract. The volume runs to almost 400 pages, and is beautifully illustrated.

-- -- -- -- -- --

A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND,

By C. T. BOWDEN,
1791.

This quaint little volume, 250 pages, has some items of interest scattered through its contents. Its outstanding feature, however, is its unsophisticated simplicity. The reference to Tandy is valuable as helping to fix the celebrated Napper Tandy's connection with Lisburn. Wm. Todd Jones was returned as member for Lisburn in 1783 to the Irish Parliament. He fought a duel with Sir Richard Musgrave and shot him through the body.

-- -- -- --

EXTRACTS.

"I went thither to Lisburn from Moira Castle, and had the pleasure of being introduced to Mr. Todd Jones, a gentleman of great repute in the political as well as the literary world. I was also introduced to Councillor Dunn, to a Mr. Tandy, brother of a celebrated patriot in Dublin, and to several other public spirited gentlemen, to whose obliging attentions I am infinitely indebted.

"The village of Johnstown in the south is remarkable for producing fine whiskey, which is spirituous liquor peculiar to Ireland. I informed the distiller that I had tasted his whiskey and that I had heard it greatly commended. He told me he did flatter himself he was fortunate in bringing it to as great a degree of sweetness as it could be brought to. He did this by causing a flow of water to pass over the worm, so as to keep it cool and temper the natural heat of the spirit, and preserve it from a burned or fiery taste."

"Thus in little more than two months I made the tour of Ireland -- the most romantic island in the world, and experienced every gratification a speculative mind could wish for. However prejudice may represent the Irish, certain it is, human nature is much the same here as in England. The common people are far removed from that semi-barbarous state, which is the general opinion on the other side of the water. They appear to me friendly, obliging, and sincere, at least those traits are stronger in their character than in that of the English peasantry."

-- -- -- -- -- --

TWO LETTERS FROM WILLIAM BASIL, Esq.,

Attorney General of Ireland;

The One,
   To the Right Honourable John Bradshaw, Lord President of the Council of State:

The other,
   To the Right Honourable William Lenthal, Esq., Speaker of the Parliament of England,


OF A GREAT VICTORY

Obtained by the Parliament's Forces in the North of Ireland, on the Plains of Lisnegarvy, against the enemy there:
    Wherein were 1,400 slain, Colonel John Hamilton taken prisoner, and seventeen more of quality.
    With a Relation of the taking of Drumcree, and of the surrender of Carrickfergus upon Articles.

Ordered by the Parliament that these letters be forthwith printed and published.
Hen: Scobell, Cleric. Parliamenti.

London, Printed by John Field for Edward Husband, Printer to the Parliament of England, 1649.

(Only one letter extracted.)

To the Right Honourable John Bradshaw, Lord President of the Council of State.

Right Honourable.

Since my last unto your Lordship, viz. on Thursday last, being the sixth of December instant, our forces in the North engaged with the forces of the enemy there, which consisted of that Party which the Lords of Ardes and Clanduboys brought with them out of Munster, and also of those under the command of George Munro, part whereof were formerly his own, and part were of Owen O Neals Ultoghs, in the whole consisting of about Two Thousand foot and eight hundred horse; their design was to relieve Carrickfergus, but were met withal by ours near unto Lisnagarvey. After some dispute between our forlorn and their rere-guard, at a boggy pass on the Plains of Lisnagarvey, their whole army were so frighted and disordered, that they were soon totally routed, and the chief work of our main body was only pursuit and execution, which was done effectually by the space of about eight or ten miles. Letters from the place speaks of a thousand of the enemy to be killed; but the messenger who brought the news hither, who was present at the work, affirms fourteen hundred; four hundred whereof were killed by a party commanded by Major King, son to Sir Robert King, who possessed himself of a pass, to which the enemy was likely to come; this was the place where George Monro swam over, who with the Lord of Ardes fled to Charlemount in great haste at the beginning of the business. All the enemies ammunition and baggage were taken, together with five hundred of their horses, and most of their foot officers; Colonel Henderson, a Scotchman, who betrayed Sligo to the Irish, was killed; Colonel John Hamilton, one other Scotchman, who killed O Conelly and burnt Lisnagarvey, is taken prisoner: also it is affirmed, that the Lord Clanduboys, and Phillip mac Mull Moor O Relly, one of the most active men amongst the rebels, are slain. Our party was in pursuit of the enemy when the messenger came away; we lost but one corporal of horse, and three private soldiers. Your Lordship may please further to understand, that Drumcree, a strong garrison of the enemies, being twelve miles from Trym, and a receptacle for the thieving tories, was upon Friday last was sevennight taken, by Major Stanley, Governor of Trym. To-morrow is the day whereon Carrickfergus is by Articles to be surrendered. Here are about one thousand three hundred landed from England since Saturday last. It is an exceeding great comfort to us all here, to see the good hand of God so evidently with us against our bloody enemies: He alone, I hope and pray, will settle peace and happiness in England and Ireland, in the continuance of these His mercies.

     My lord, I am your lordship's
          Most humble servant,
               WILLIAM BASIL.

Dublin, 12th Decemb.
     1649.

(To be Continued).

==========================

RECORDS OF OLD LISBURN.

Interesting Supplementary Items by "Historicus."

To The Editor, "Lisburn Standard."

Sir -- Among the very intetestfing Historical Records of old Lisburn published in your issue of the 30th March is a list of names, comprising the Troop of Lisburn Volunteer Cavalry. This list agrees with one published by you in a communication headed "History repeats itself," in your issue of 10th April, 1914, and was copied from the original account book of the troop for the year 1798, in which a double-page "Dr. and Cr." was devoted to each trooper's account.

Each trooper was styled Mr. (excepting the trumpeter), and received two guineas for "clothing money." He provided his own horse, and paid thirteen pence subscription per month to the troop funds. When up on permanent, duty his pay was 3s per day, and at intervals for parades, exercise, &c., 2s per day. A fine of 5s. 5d was inflicted for absence on field days, excepting when from home at a distance of over 10 miles. The troop was up on permanent duty from 6th to 30th June, and the entire month of July, 1798. At the foot of Mr. Wm. Coulson's account there is a note stating he "left the troop in the month of June, 1798, he having been appointed an officer of the Lisburn Infantry. He gave up his accoutrements and clothes and got his jacket and waistcoat." There is a similar entry at the foot of Mr. Francis Dobb's account, he leaving in the month of September.

In the general accounts of the troop there are several items of interest of which the following are a few:--
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

Paid as Turner for Ploughing of exercise field	£0	16	3
Paid Soldiers lor trimming the horses of the troop	1	2	9
Candles for Guard Room	0	1	10
Candlestick and Snuffers	0	2	8
Half a ton of coal	0	11	4½
Cloth and 2 jackets for the trumpeter	3	11	7
Trumpeter's Breeches	1	14	1½
Spurs for Trumpeter	0	6	6
Boots for Trumpeter	1	2	9
Feathers for Trumpeter's Cap	0	17	4
Lace and Chain for Trumpeter's Coat	3	3	9½
Drugs for Trumpeter's Horse	0	11	6
Shoeing Trumpeter's Horse	0	3	4
Trumpet	3	12	0
Paid Mr. John Rogers his bill for scarlet ooating for cloaks	13	2	0
Paid Yarr, Tailor, his bill for making 2 jackets for Trumpeter and 6 cloaks for the Troop	1	9	3
Paid Barbers for cutting and dressing the hair of the privates the morning of the Inspection	0	16	3
Paid Jas. Turner, for keeping Trumpeter's horse for 4 months	3	8	3
Dobbin's bill of expenses incurred by the Troop at Lurgan on 12th July	6	5	1½
Paid for getting road to exercise field repaired, and for printed directions for Sword Exercise	3	4	5½
Patrick M'Gowan for keeping the accounts of the Troop	6	0	0

          Yours truly,
               "HISTORICUS."
Lisburn, 5th April, 1917.

(This article was originally published in the Lisburn Standard on 13 April 1917 as part of a series which ran in that paper each week through 1917. The text along with other extracts can be found on my website Eddies Extracts.)

Track of King William and The Williamites in Ireland

SOME EXTRACTS

FROM THE

RECORDS OF

OLD LISBURN

AND THE

MANOR OF KILLULTAGH.

-- -- -- --

Edited by JAMES CARSON.

-- -- -- --

XXV.

-- -- -- --

TRACK OF 
KING WILLIAM 
AND THE WILLIAMITES 
IN IRELAND

-- -- -- --

From the "Belfast Weekly News," June 28th, 1890.

-- -- -- --

By RICHARD LILBURN.

-- -- -- --

Richard Lilburn was editor of the "Belfast Weekly News," and "Belfast News-Letter," and produced in the former a series of articles, on King William's movements in Ireland. In the same paper he wrote under the title "Chapters in the History of Orangeism" an exhaustive history of the Order. Lisburn and district are frequently referred to. Lilburn was obsessed with subject and wrote upon it minutely and voluminously. When editor of the "Armagh Guardian" he published in 1866 a treatise entitled "Orangeism; its Origin, Constitution, and Objects."

In the "Irish Book Lover," vol. II there is a short reference to Lilburn. The writer states:-- "The poor old man became obsessed with his subject, and almost buried beneath the mass of material. None the less the work is well worth reprinting." The novelist, Frankfort Moore, who wrought for a time on the staff of the "Belfast News-Letter" under Lilburn, in his "Journalist's Note Book," gives a humorous, but not very kind description of his chief.

In the "Ulster Journal of Archaeology, vol. I. -- 1858 -- under the title "King William's Progress to the Boyne," are to be found full and original notes on General Schomberg's sojourn in Lisburn, he had his head-quarters in Lisburn as early as January, 1689, and King William's progress through Lambeg, Lisburn, Blaris and Hillsborough.

-- -- -- --

From Belfast to Dundalk.

When King William left Belfast in the morning of June 19, 1690, the weather was variable, as is commonly the case in that month; and to satisfy the stories current, his Majesty's health must have been indifferent. According to tradition he had only reached the locality in which are the lodge and other gate premises of the Royal Botanic Gardens when he halted at a roadside thatched cottage, occupied by a Roman Catholic named M'Keown, whom he asked for a drink of water. The hostess, however, gave him milk, and the Royal gratitude was expressed in a grant of the holding. That property is now in the hands of the Belfast Corporation, and the site is occupied by a building which is an ornament even in an ornamental part of the city. The tradition survives the tracks of William.

HALTS AT THE ROOKERY (Cranmore)

About a mile further on the King again halted, this time at the mansion and grounds then known as the Rookery -- an appropriate name. The place was owned and occupied by Mr. John Eccles, members of whose family are still living near Fintona, in the County Tyrone. According to a well authenticated narrative his Majesty was overtaken by a heavy downpour of rain, and, observing some large trees near the road, he took shelter under one of them. Just then, Mr. Eccles approached the King, and tendered the use of his house to him and his staff. The invitation was accepted, and the Royal party was hospitably entertained. Those who have a right to know add that Mrs. Eccles was absent at the time, and had with her the key of the cellar; but this difficulty was removed by bursting the door open. After enjoying the creature comforts liberally provided, the King reposed for a short time on a bed, which was long preserved in the family, as were also the jug containing the ale supplied to his Majesty, the glass from which he drank, and the mirror he used. The jug or what remains of it, for the bronze lid was lost, was shown at the opening of Belfast Free Library. The mirror in still to be seen. During his visit the King was very agreeable in his manner, assumed no importance, and appeared most anxious that the family should not feel embarrassed. It is said that his Majesty gave Mr. Eccles a picture in which the King himself is seen, wearing at the time a chain made of Irish gold, and mounted on the proverbial white horse. When about to leave, his Majesty expressed a wish to confer the honour of a knighthood on the host; but he declined, saying that the King might do as he pleased for his son. The Royal visitor and his forces then proceeded on their journey, accompanied by young Mr. Eccles, who joined the army, and is supposed to be the Sir John Eccles, Knight, Lord Mayor of Dublin, in 1710, and after whom Eccles Street is called. The ash tree which afforded temporary shelter to William was for many years venerated by the Orangemen, who met there on the eve of the 12th of July, and marched round it several times. Finally, it was blown down in a storm, in 1796, which was fatal to the French fleet in Bantry Bay. The Orangemen then adopted the ash tree adjacent, and it also yielded to a storm in 1808. The place was known as Orange Grove, after the visit of the Prince of Orange; and when it became the property of Mr. Templeton he changed the name to Cranmore. The house is believed to have been built originally from the ruins of Mary's Abbey, near Malone Church. The Abbey was destroyed by Colonel Legge, who had the large blocks of stone placed on the ground as a foundation, and the grouting did the rest. When changes were being made in the original structure, a stone was found with an Irish cross carved on it. Cranmore helps us to trace the route of William and the Williamites. It is now the residence of Mr. Walter Wilson, of the eminent shipbuilding firm on the Queen's Island, Belfast.

Lambeg.

Another mile in the Royal route brought the King and his army to Malone House, owned and occupied by a Mr. Legge, who was said to have been a military officer, served under Schomberg in Flanders, and accompanied him to Ireland. The description is somewhat confused: but there is no doubt of the house being occupied by Mr. Legge, who was descended from a family holding ducal rank in Venice. It is now vacant, and belongs to Lady Harberton.

A little further on, the bugles sounded and there was a long halt in the vicinity of a mansion, then the property of the Wolfendens. It was close by the Lagan River, and, while cavalry and infantry were refreshing themselves, the King retired into the House, and was hospitably entertained. The original name of this beautifully-situated holding and residence, now owned and occupied by Mrs. Niven, was Waterside. When it passed into the hands of the Wolfendens, they called it Harmony Hill. The late Mr. Niven having bought the property he changed the name to Chrome Hill. Two hundred years ago there was no bridge built over the Lagan below this locality. The river had to be crossed by a ford, the remains of which are still visible; and while going down the steep hill to the ford the one of the gun-carriages was overturned and damaged, which caused delay to make the necessary repairs. During the time occupied in repairing, King William stopped in Mr. Wolfenden's house, and had some refreshment. The spot where the carriage was damaged is marked by an oak tree known as "King William's Oak." The chair he used is still extant, and the apartment he occupied is pointed out.

On reaching the village of Lambeg, the King experienced some difficulty in regard to the route. There were three roads -- one leading towards Lord Conway's racecourse; the other towards Collin; and the third led to Lisburn. Seeing a sturdy man at the door of a smithy, his Majesty inquired the way to Lisburn. The tone of voice and foreign pronunciation excited Rene Bulmer, for this was the smith's name, and in genuine French he replied to his Majesty who was amazed. The villagers having heard that a Royal personage was passing, assembled to gaze on the cavalcade; and; it was soon announced that Bulmer was a Hugenot who had fled from the persecution in France, and was carrying on the double duties of veterinary surgeon and blacksmith. When the Head of the Protestant interest was about to march forward, Bulmer was allowed to embrace him; and stooping from his horse, the King, saluted the refugee's wife, described as a handsome little Frenchwoman. The portrait of Madame Bulmer is in the possession of a lineal descendent, Mr. Rene Bulmer, of Old Park, Lisburn. Mrs. Niven is also a descendent. The name of Bulmer has changed to Boomer.

Reaches Lisburn.

At length the King and his forces reached Lisburn, then and still a place of considerable importance. Lord Conway was the virtual founder of the town. Having obtained a grant of Killultagh from Charles the First, he induced a number of English and Welsh families to settle in the locality, and in 1610 he erected a castle to protest himself and them; but in his time it does not seem to have been more than a village, containing only 53 tenements. The old name of Linsley-Garvin survived the alienation of the territory from O'Neill, a member of the Tyrone family. Later on, through the influence of Lord Conway, who was Secretary of State to Charles the Second, the town had secured the position of chief postal centre of the county; and letters were despatched tri-weekly for England, via Donaghadee, which was the great passenger port for Ulster. Lisburn holds a conspicuous place in Anglo-Irish history. In the troublous period beginning in 1641, it suffered severely, and was reduced to ruin, notwithstanding, the heroic exploits of its brave defenders, commanded by Sir George Rawdon. The town, however, was soon restored. Better streets were formed; better houses were built; and its improved condition excited the surprise and attracted the encomiums of the English and foreign soldiers who had been encamped in the neighbourhood during the winter of 1689 and the spring and part of the summer of 1690; but who were now -- June 18 -- with the enemy, at the Boyne.

Duke Schomberg. made Lisburn his headquarters. He resided in a house situate in Castle Street, nearly opposite to the entrance to the Cathedral. That house was rebuilt a great many years ago and became the property of the benevolent Quaker, Mr. John Hancock. It is now owned by Mr. Samuel Wilson. The town was seen for the first time by Story when Schomberg's troops marched to Blaris to take up winter quarters, on Monday the 2nd of September, 1689; and here is what he says of it:--

"This is one of the prettiest inland towns in the North of Ireland, and one it the most English-like places in the Kingdom; the Irish name is Lishnagarvah, which they tell me signifies the Gamesters-Mount; for a little to the North-east of the Town there is a mount, moated about, and another to the South-west; these were formerly surrounded with a great wood, and thither resorted all the Irish outlaws, to play at cards and dice, one of the most considerable amongst them having lost all, even his Cloaths, went in a Passion, in the middle of the night, to the House of a Nobleman in that Countrey, who before had set a considerable Sum on his head; and in this mood he surrendered himself his Prisoner, which the other considering of, pardon'd him; and afterwards this Town was built, when the knot of these rogues was broke; which was done chiefly by the help of this one man; the town is so modern, however, that Camden takes no notice of it.

Camden's Brittannia was published fifty-five years before the old obscure town was destroyed by the insurgents in 1641; and no one is surprised to hear that, in his imperfect sketch of Ireland the eminent English man did not mention Lisnegarvey. The new town, which was called Lisburn derived its name from a fort and a river and had nothing whatever to do with the Gamesters' Mount. Story, however, only wrote what he heard and the narrative is interesting in regard to the origin of Lisnagarvey, while it stands at a great distance from the source to which Lisburn is properly traced. The new town was still incomplete when Schomberg's troops marched through it to Blaris, leaving the General in his quarters in Castle Street, and a detachment of the army in temporary barracks in the same locality.

When the advance guard of William's army entered Lisburn a remnant of James's troops assembled in the Market Square. They had arrived just before the Williamites; but were speedily driven out of town by a party from the camp at Blaris. Captain Johnston who had charge of the camp during Schomberg's absence had the honour of providing refreshments for his Majesty in the residence of George Gregson, a Quaker. The captain's quarters were in Gregson's house, the site of which is at present occupied by the branch of the Northern Bank; and there the King and Schomberg dined. At the same time, Lady Mulgrave, widow of the last Earl Conway, entertained the officers of the army. His Majesty remained only a short time in the town; but he gave ample proof of his anxiety to promote the well-being of the population, which included many French Protestants who had fled from persecution after the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes. Among the refugees was Louis Crommelin, who was taken into his Majesty's service, and was supplied with money to promote the linen trade. Yea, more, the King sent several Hollanders to instruct Crommelin and his friends in the art of bleaching, so that the people might be able to grow the fibre, convert it into cloth, and then bleach it. The bleaching process was carried on at the Hilden Works, convenient to which a colony of foreigners resided; and down to the later years of last century the place was called New Holland Francis, first Baron Seymour Conway, who succeeded to the Killultagh and Derryvolgie estates in 1699, continued the patronage bestowed on Louis Crommelin, in relation to the land at Hilden the weaving, and the workers' residences.

King William's Thorn.

After marching some nine miles and when within a little over two Irish miles of Hillsborough, the Williamite forces for the third time found themselves in the immediate vicinity of the Lagan, which was on their right flank, and as usual the bugles sounded a halt, and the whole army was brought to a standstill. The men of all grades fell out of the ranks and dispersed through the fields, refreshing themselves from the river. The cavalry in the rere choose the banks of a stream which runs along the valley from Revarnet till it joins with the Lagan about a mile from Lisburn. Men and chargers enjoyed well-earned rest; and the place where they bivouacked was afterwards known as Troopers' Field. It is now in the possession of Messrs. Barbour, of Hilden, who acquired the property by purchase from the representatives of the late Captain Coulson. According to local tradition the rere guard remained there for a considerable time, the position being strategic as a cover for the advancing army, while preserving and keeping open the line of communication with Belfast, whence supplies would have to be drawn in the case of any serious interruption of the progress of the Royal Forces. The infantry were posted in the neighbourhood of Blaris, on the east and south-east of the Lagan river. Their position was examined by his Majesty; and during this hasty survey of his troops, William dismounted and had his horse tied to a thorn bush, which has ever since been known as "King William's Thorn." It still flourishes, and every Twelfth of July it is decorated with orange lilies. The relic is much esteemed in that part of the country; and the decoration was faithfully attended to by a veteran Orangeman, Mr. John Keery, who annually discharged this self-imposed labour of love for upwards of seventy years. He died at the advanced age of eighty-four years; and in his house and the house of his father Loyal Orange Lodge, No. 128, sat since the number was first issued, when rebellion was raging in '98, and Blaris Moor was again a vast military encampment, in which the loyal yeomanry had quartered. "King William's Thorn" was made famous by the commander-in-chief of the troops at Blaris issuing an order to include it in guard duty, the few Roman Catholics in the camp having shown a malicious desire to degrade the relic because of its associations. There is no doubt about the history of the thorn. It has been carefully preserved by the Keerys, Porters, and M'Camlays, of Blaris; and to-day it may be said to enter upon a new lease, as thousands will have heard of it for the first time. The Gilbert family, in whose land the famous whitethorn flourished, have passed away. They tended it with great care; manured the roots and trimmed the branches annually; and then the work was undertaken by the Keerys, whose house is about two hundred yards distant. The haws, of which there is in due season a large crop, have been sent to most parts of the civilised world, at the urgent request of loyal Irishmen, who sought new homes in the Colonies and in the United States of America. Separated, perhaps for ever, from the old home, they could not forget early-scenes -- the natural white bloom in spring, and the decoration with orange lilies in July -- and there hearts were with the "Thorn," the effective memorial of great events and of the King by whom they were accomplished. Of the genuineness of this relic there is ample proof. The late Dr. Cupples, Rector of Lisburn, is said to have heard from one of his parishioners who lived to the age of 110 years, that he recollected having seen his Majesty alight from his horse and throw the reins over the bush, the identity of which has never been disputed.

(To be Continued).


(This article was originally published in the Lisburn Standard on 6 April 1917 as part of a series which ran in that paper each week through 1917. The text along with other extracts can be found on my website Eddies Extracts.)

Mother

When you're a child
she walks before you,
To set an example.

When you're a teenager
she walks behind you
To be there should you need her.

When you're an adult
she walks beside you
So that as two friends
you can enjoy life together.

- Author Unknown.